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NOT INCLUDED
Personal travel insurance, optional excursions and services
Single supplement in Moscow 3* hotel: £35 per night
Single supplement in Elbrus: £100 in total

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ACCOMMODATION
We generally use local 3* hotels. In the Elbrus area we stay in one of the best local hotels in twin rooms with showers (en-suite). On the way up to the summit of Elbrus it is easier to stay overnight in the huts. So we use the well-known Bochki camp situated at the end of the last chair lift. The camp is placed on Garabashi hill on the slopes of Elbrus at approx. 3,800 m. There are 10 large comfortable barrels here (in Russian – “Bochki”) with wooden shelves inside for approx. 6-8 people and some space at the entry for equipment. There is a canteen with kitchen facilities in the separate hut. There are no showers, toilets in a separate hut. They are quite comfortable and became the main accommodation place for climbers.  

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TIME & CLIMBING CONDITIONS
The best time for climbing Elbrus is from May through to August, with the best month normally being July.  

Elbrus is a volcanic massif to the north of the Caucasus Main Ridge. Normally the ascent begins from the Baksan Valley and is led on the south slope of Mount Elbrus. The trip is not technically difficult but requires crampons and an ice axe. Systematic programming of acclimatization is essential prior to making the ascent.

The climb itself may take between 6-10 hours; the descent another 4-6 hours. The main obstacles are high altitude, fog, wind and the cold.

For guiding this climb we always use experienced top-skilled Russian mountaineers.

This climb is more a test of stamina rather than a technical task so with proper acclimatization and good weather, you can reach the summit. In short, it is a very achievable challenge which requires proper cold weather clothing and basic mountaineering skills which you can develop during the trip.

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SPECIAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

Climbing equipment

• Double plastic boots.
• Crampons: step-ins or strap-on (10-12 point), check that the boots fit beforehand. Point protectors are also useful for storage and adjusting tool.
• Ice axe: general mountaineering – normally 65cm. – preferable to have rubber end protectors.
• Harness with carabineers.
• Trekking poles
• Gaiters.

Clothing

The key to clothing is the layering system. Layers can be added or discarded with temperature fluctuations. The first layer is a form of synthetic underwear that draws moisture away from the skin and dries quickly. This is followed by two or more insulating layers, also preferably of synthetic pile and a windproof outer layer. This system applies not only to the torso but also to extremities.

• Hiking boots;
• Socks: liners - medium weight and heavy, at least few pairs of each;
• Lightweight long underwear, top and bottom;
• “Expedition-weight” long underwear, top and bottom;
• Pile jacket;
• Pile trousers;
• Windbreaker, waterproof/breathable;
• Wind pants, waterproof/breathable;
• Synthetic or down parka with hood. If you cannot provide this you must be sure of providing an extra warm fleece to compensate and a windproof outer jacket. This is seldom worn whilst climbing but most appreciated during meals, in camp and in pre-dawn hours of cold summit days;
• Balaclava or something to cover the face like a neck warmer or even a scarf;
• Sunhat, wool or fleece hat (warm with ear flaps);
• Mitts with gore-Tex or waterproof shells or one pair of very warm gloves with inners.

Camping equipment

• Rucksack (min. 65 litres);
• Day pack (around 35-40 litres) used for valley hikes and summit mornings;
• Sleeping bag, 3 seasons - rated to around 10 if you sleep cold. The huts are relatively warm;
• Water bottles - 2 x 1 litres capacity. (Platypus, Nalgene bottles or thermos);
• Sunscreen and lip balm;
• Headlamp;
• Sunglasses (100% UV);
• Goggles - optional (useful for contact lens wearers).

Other

• Toiletries;
• First-aid kit (please refer to our “First-aid checklist”);
• Camera and film.

Equipment rented locally

You can rent locally some of the necessary climbing equipment, which includes:

• Plastic climbing boots - £4-4.5
• Crampons - £2-2.5
• Ice Axe - £2
• Harness - £1
• Trekking poles - £3
• Warm jacket - £3-5.5
• Sleeping bag - £2-2.5
• Torch - £2
• Goggles - £1-2
• Thermal bottles - £1-1.5

Approximate prices in GBP/per day

Note: Please consult us about climbing gear and renting possibilities.

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HEALTH ISSUES

Altitude illnesses

Lack of oxygen at high altitudes (over 2500m.) affects most people to some extent. The effect may be mild or severe and occurs because the air pressure is reduced and the heart and lungs must work harder to oxygenate the body. While mild AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) does not interfere with normal activity, the persistent and worsening symptoms can lead to the severe AMS and even to two very serious conditions such as High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and Cerebral Edema which could be fatal. Unfortunately youth, good fitness and previous experience at high elevations do not necessarily mean that you will be less likely to have problems with altitude.

The symptoms of AMS include: Headache, Dizziness and nausea , Loss of appetite, Disturbed sleep, Shortness of breath.

The best medicine is prevention and there are some things that climbers can do to to minimize their risks of illness and improve their performance:

- The mountaineer’s dictum “Climb high, sleep low” is the best method to prevent AMS;
- Stay properly hydrated (drink at least 4-6 liters of liquids per day). Urine output schould be copious and clear to pale yellow;
- Eat a high calorie diet while at altitude;
- Take it easy and don’t push yourself when you get at altitude;- A slow and steady pace will carry you much higher and easier;
- Avoid tobacco, alcohol and any depressant drugs.

If the symptoms increse go down!

These are guidelines only! For more detailed and professional information regarding the AMS please refer to the following links:  

www.traveldoctor.co.uk
www.thebmc.co.uk
www.ismmed.org

Note: Please view a suggested complete First-Aid Kit Checklist for your trip. Please contact us to obtain information on the medications available from your guide on site.

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GUIDES PROFILES
 
 Name: Pavel Milanov 
Occupation: Qualified Teacher of the Russian Federation 
Education: MSc 
Achievements: Mountaineer, referee, international rank C in skiing 
Home: Piatigorsk
Pavel’s interest in mountaineering started 27 years ago and since then he’s been successfully combining his full-time teaching job with his lifelong passion for mountains. He’s been leading expeditions to Elbrus since 1984 and also working as a ski instructor on Elbrus since 1988.






Name: Igor Novak 
Occupation: climbing guide and skiing instructor, specialist in industrial mountaineering 
Education: MSc 
Achievements: candidate for Master of Mountaineering, world class rock and ice climber, winner of numerous Ukrainian Rock and Ice Climbing Championships 
Home: Ukraine 
Igor has been attracted to this adventurous profession from the age of 28. He has devoted his spare time to conquering mountains in different seasons and - as often happens – his hobby became a profession. Guide on Elbrus since 1989 and ski instructor since 2002. 



Name: Elena Beletskaja 
Occupation: climbing guide, tour leader, manager 
Education: MSc 
Home: St. Petersburg 
Achievements: candidate for Master of Mountaineering, 10 ascents of peaks over 7,000m (former USSR) 
She has got it all! Impressive achievements and an exciting life! Elena’s experience in mountaineering is vast – 27 years of climbing, 17 years as an instructor, more that 20 years leading groups (including schools) on Mt Elbrus. In February this year she successfully climbed Mt. Aconcagua!