Climbing to the Highest Mountain in Europe - Elbrus (EL-01)

Arrival in Moscow. Our driver will meet you in the arrival sector with a Go Russia sign board. Transfer to the hotel. Free time to explore the city on your own.

Transfer to the airport to take a short flight to Mineralnye Vody where you will be met by our representative. On the way from the airport we pass local cities and villages and in approximately 4 hours, arrive in the valley of the Baksan River. Here we can already see the snow-capped summits. Check-in at the hotel.

A day to acclimatise. After breakfast we hike up to the Cheget peak (3,050 m) for approximately 5 hours, stopping to relax at the “Ai” café (2,750 m), from where you will enjoy a panoramic view of the Baksan valley and the twin summits of Mt. Elbrus. The route is not technically difficult, and the degree of the slope is approx. 15-25°. Return to the hotel. In the evening - theoretical lessons with a guide.

Acclimatization climb to one of the main attractions of the South Elbrus region, the Maiden Spit waterfall (2,800 m) and the Observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences (3,100 m). After descent - selection and rental of missing mountain equipment at the rental point.

Breakfast. Check out from the hotel. Drive to the cable-car station "Azau" and then up to the Old Horizon station (3,000 m). Check-in in a mountain hotel (a short 30 m walk from the cable car to the hotel).

After lunch, acclimatisation hike to the Mir station (3,455 m) or up to the highest cable car station in Europe Gara-Bashi (3,847 m) depending on weather conditions and the physical condition of the group members. On the way we will visit the scenic Sarykaya-Su waterfall.

After practical lessons on the slope - training the skills of walking in crampons, working with a rope, self-retention in the snow with the help of an ice axe - descent to the hotel.

An overnight stay at this altitude is very important because it ensures smooth acclimatisation.

After an early check-out from the mountain hotel we ascend by cable car to the Gara-Bashi station (3,847 m), check-in in a mountain shelter.

Acclimatisation hike higher up to the Pastukhova rocks (4,700 m). The route is not too steep with the last part being the steepest at 20 to 25 degrees, but it is tough going at this high altitude. Be prepared for hard walking.

Practical training on the slope.

Rest day.

Today we attempt to reach the main target of our trip - the summit of Mt.Elbrus. We will wake up very early to start our climbing. Using the headtorches we make our way to the Pastukhova rocks where we stop for a short rest and have some drinks. From Pastukhova rocks the slope is not more than 20-25 degrees, but the high altitude starts to affect your stamina. Over 5,000 m the route turns to the left and we start traverse the slope in the direction of the small flat “saddle” plateau, which we will reach in 2-3 hours. A final big effort is needed to reach the top, which we can do by going either to the East or West Summit.

East Summit (5,624 m) - it is an easier option because the icy slope from the saddle is not so steep (maximum 30 degree). The route leads to the top without any technical difficulties. However this route takes some time.

West Summit (5,642 m) - this is a more difficult choice because a steep clear ice slope (30-35 degrees) leads to the summit plateau. We will need to use crampons, ropes and in some cases ice-screws here. But after hard work we will arrive at the long (approx. 1 km) flat top plateau, leading us directly to the peak.

You need to be even more careful when descending than when climbing. When the slope from Pastukhova rock is covered with ice, we use a stiff rope, although it takes much longer. Return to the camp and prepare for a celebration dinner for the winners in the evening. You will also receive your certificate confirming you’ve been on the top of Mt. Elbrus once you are down in the valley.

Accommodation after the summit attempt. Generally, we stay at the mountain refuge this night. If all members of the group come back from the top before 3 PM there is an option to descend and have an overnight at the hotel Cheeper Azau. However this will require additional payment for hotel accommodation and meals, because this night has already been paid for in the mountain refuge.

Note: for this day there will be 1 guide for every 3 clients. Only one summit attempt is provided.

Important information

Snowcat rental for summit attempt
Most climbers order a snowcat from the mountain huts (3,800 m) to Pastukhov rocks (4,800 - 5,100 m), it saves about 3-4 hours climbing and lots of physical efforts. The cost of the snowcat is equally divided among the group members. During the high season (June - August) the snowcats operate at their full capacity (12 people including 3 guides) and the price is around 100 - 120 euros per person. This fee must be paid locally and is not included in the tour price.

The use of a snowcat is not mandatory. If there are at least three people in a group wishing not to use snowcats at all (“participants on foot”), we will provide assistant guides (1 guide for 3 climbers) with no extra fee. If the number of people wishing to climb without using a snowcat is less than three people, it is necessary to use the services of an individual guide for an additional fee of about 300 euros. This fee must be paid locally and is not included in the tour price.

Access to the route of participants on foot (who do not use snowcats) is 3-4 hours earlier than the main group. They should be aware that if one of the participants in this mini-group feels unwell or there are other reasons to refuse to continue climbing by one of the participants, the remaining 1-2 members are also obliged to descend to the hut. Participants who were forced to descend (from altitudes up to 4,500 m) but are in good physical condition can make a second summit attempt on the same day, provided they either rent a snowcat / snowmobile (approximately 150 eur) to meet the main group or their forced descent was before the main group started their ascend.

Based on our experience only 5% of all climbers prefer NOT to use snowcats on the summit day. Payment in cash only. Please budget your expenses accordingly.

Timing

• Start time: when using a snowcat to Pastukhova rocks - 4 AM, without using a snowcat - 1 AM.
• Climb duration: for most groups, the ascent to the West summit is 7-9 hours.
• Summit: the summit is usually reached by 10 AM - 1 PM.
• Descend: from 2 PM all group members must start their descend, from the top to the hut it takes 4-6 hours.

Descend down to Terskol and overnight at the hotel. In case of bad weather this is a back up day for summit attempt.

Breakfast in the hotel. Free time. In the afternoon transfer to the airport Mineralnyje Vody for your flight back to Moscow.

Elbrus Panorama

Ascend schema from the National park refuge (3,900 m) to the top of the mountain (5,642 m).

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